Friesland province in the Northern Netherlands is a land of water- lakes, canals and streams; of woods, moorland and sand dunes. The Wadden Sea to the west takes you to the four Friesland Islands; Schiermonnikoog, Vlieland, Ameland, Terschelling. I have not visited them but they are tempting. The travel brochure tells me that cars are not allowed on the first two, but everywhere in the Netherlands allows bicycles- so off you go! Friesland has eleven cities, each having its own particular charm and interest. I have visited Leeuwarden twice, and spent short periods of time in Harlingen, Makkum, Hindeloopen, and Workum- chiefly in pursuit of tiles, but getting to know some of the history of the place and enjoying the scenery. The plaintive cry of this hot and tired sightseer, "Is it time for a beer yet?" did wonders for the great Dutch beer industry!

Leeuwarden is the capital city of Friesland. It is easy to walk around the city to most points of historical interest. There are two museums of importance for tiles and ceramics. One is the Museum het Princessehof and the other is the Fries Museum. On my visits in the summers of 1995 and 1996 the tiles section of the Fries Museum was closed- for renovations, I was told each time. I hope one of these days to be able to see that collection.

The Museum het Princessehof buildings were the residence of Maria Louise van Hessen- Kassel, wife of Johan Willem Friso, Prince of Orange. The name Princessehof means Princess's Court.

As well as Dutch tiles, the collection includes, in smaller quantities, tiles from Spain, Portugal, France, England, Italy, Syria, Iran and Iznik tiles from Turkey. Several large tiled floors had been brought together; also large groupings arranged on the walls. These include tiles from Spain, Portugal, Italy and North Africa. The Dutch tiles occupy large rooms, where they are well organized and displayed and nicely lit. The tiles are divided into 35 sections. Explanatory pages in a binder, typed in Dutch and English describe each group of tiles. I have to admit that I monopolized this for the length of my visit, but even so, I just scratched the surface. (There were not many visitors while I was there so I didn't feel too guilty!) Several visits would be necessary to give it its due. It is a spectacular collection and should be a first stop, if possible, for anyone interested in Dutch tiles. It gives a thorough overview of the development of tiles and shows the types of decoration and subjects used over the centuries.

I made brief notations at the time- rather too brief I see-but they may fill out the headings a little.

The sections are as follows:

1.	Antwerp tiles 1525-1600
2.	Early ornamented tiles 1560-1600
3.	Quatrefoil tiles & orange apples 1580-1625
	Four matched tiles put together made the full pattern In the 17th century the term "orange apples" was used for pomegranates.
4.	Early flower-in-vase 1600-1640
5.	Lozenge tiles
	Square tiles laid on the diagonal. They showed portraits, castles, mythological animals and sometimes a person in a crouched position relieving himself. A sense of rough humour here!
6.	Circle tiles
	Corners form a rosette. Corners done in "reserve" technique -light shapes on dark background. There were 2 unusually large tiles (17cm) of soldiers.
7.	Ornamented tiles 1580-1650
8.	Friezes & plinths 1580-1800
	These were narrower to finish the top of large expanses of tiles. Some sea animals and 12 polychrome soldiers in Eastern clothing (usually referred to as "Saracens")The way the soldiers wield their weapons and the way the bodies are turned give the impression of figures constantly swirling and twirling. Made in Rotterdam, 1660 Tile from Gouda of a bird on a nail, 1640-1660. These are found in several museums. I love them. Perky polychrome parakeets? perky and polychrome anyway. As with soldiers, birds face in different directions, as do the nails and this gives an impression of movement.
9.	Polychrome star tiles 1600-1625
	Spectacular tableaux, wall size.
10.	Grape bunch & pomegranate 1600-1625
11.	Tulip ornamentation 1600-1640
12	Fruit basket tiles 1620-1670
13.	Triple tulip tiles 1625-1700
14.	Blue animal tiles 1620-1660
	The brochure said that in the first half of the 17th century, fashions changed. Tiles had less painting. More emphasis was on the central image and less on the surrounding decoration. After 1625 tiles became predominantly monochrome and formed a transition period to the second half of the 17th century.
15.	Tiles showing strong Chinese influence 1620-1660
16.	Human activities 1625-1660
	Humans less an adjunct to animals. Show trades people; people walking, dancing, engaged in sports, and yes, more depictions of bodily functions.
17.	Candelabra 1625-1650
18.	Polychrome flower and birds 1640-1660
	Lots of colour- for use in houses of well-off farmers
19.	Flower-in-vase 1625-1675
20.	Lozenge 1625-1675
21.	Soldiers 1625-1650
22.	Oval tiles 1635-1660
23.	Ships 1650-1750
24.	Aigrette designs 1640-1670
	"Little feather" design- finely painted- Haarlem
25.	Children's games 1650-1900
26.	Cavalry tiles 1650-1750
27.	Sea monsters and fishes 1650-1750
	Sea creatures include mythical figures, fantastical fishes, mermaids, mermen etc.
28.	Aigrettes 1640-1670
29.	Human activities- courteous constituent 1670-1720
30.	Armorial tiles 1680-1780
31.	Ornamented tiles 1680-1800
32.	Pandects 1687-1700
	Originated in Harlingen. Idea of Sybrand Feitama. Subjects from the legal code in order to explain the law. Gave the citation of the legal section. Very few were made as the idea was not a success. A classic case of something that "seemed like a good idea at the time"!
33.	Mythology 1680-1800
34.	Biblical tiles 1660-1840
	Wonderful collection. Blue and manganese- some with Biblical citations and some without. One purpose of Biblical tiles was to teach Bible stories to those who were poor and/or illiterate.
35.	Pastoral and landscape 1660-1840

I hope you will all enjoy a visit as much as I did. With any luck, we will be able to see the tiles in the Fries Museum as well some time soon.